"Confidence" do the boots surface
"Confidence" do the boots surface
This compilation from the WORLD FOOTWEAR
Author: Tony Garley
When the center line of the standard upper parts bent surfaces, only use models with a straight center line of shoes in order to control a single surface of the head to help components (Figure 1). So in this case the flattening process involving the bending of straight lines. Obviously the few remaining documents on the process, so that the process is daunting trainees also not surprising.
Basic theory
In the style uppers, the surface center line must be straight in order to guarantee the overall style of cutting out the components. But the process that how? In this section, a lot of styles are taught to cut the standard pattern in the upper part - with a curved center line - will become the new place on the middle line, curved line center will be placed on the bottom line, then the two lines placed in a straight line at the top end portion.
Figure 2 and Figure 3 shows two alternative ideas. The figure, positioning line 1, line (with arrows) similar in size to the upper and lower distance. Therefore, one would think upper molding, apply pressure to the upper region of the same for each. Line 2 shows the distance from the line center and close toe an alternative distance and location.
However, if you only pay attention when positioning a straight line toe area and the surface center line, it is easy to overlook a very important issue, and the problem will become more apparent in the following.
When the design had to change the shape of the line AB, its length must be maintained, because the toe edge to be sutured to the design of this line unchanged when the boots on. Toe area needs to be supported or arch, above the toes to ensure that the appropriate width. Which would normally shorten the molding edge, it may be necessary through the back support or back edge of the lower part of the upper arch to compensate. We will explain why this would cause problems.
General rules
In fact, we can establish some upper leveling process can be applied to a variety of styles of shoes of the general rules. This process can be summarized as the following three steps.
1, the line CA: determine the location of point O, in this design line (AO) will be part of the arch, without change in part (OB) will meet with the line XY, and then determine its location, set the new center a straight line.
2, the line segment AB: AO from the existing line on the interception of a new segment A1-OB.
3, the line BC: P decided to anchor the position designated in the toe area forming a new edge. The sideline and saved the line C-B mixing.
Boots after the surface is flattened, the ordinary method to produce the entire surface to help cut pieces, when the hand-cut style, the center line XY as a fold line, or as a mirror line, if the use of computer-aided (CAD) system, then. In step 3, with the handle side of the mouth treated in the same way CB within the external side of the mouth.
The following more detailed description of steps 1, 2 and 3, and explain how it works.
Step one, to 90 degrees of azimuth measurement, the point O to the center line XY distance must be the case with standard surface point O to the center line a distance equal to CA last point (Figure 4). This is because the upper side of the suture line AOB is divided into two parts. The next part of the OB does not change shape or position, when part of phase with the boots, they will appear in green shows the drafting of the line, the line to help control surface position, more precisely, to help control surface when forming a regional or leg boots (Figure 5).
For example, if the styles, O XY centerline distance from the surface than the CA line near the top of the tube in the molding can not be properly positioned. If O points higher, the boots will lead to incorrect angle relative to the ground. O distance to maintain a constant distance from the center line is a very important issue, and if people in line when the new positioning only pay attention to upper middle, this can be easily overlooked.
Segments are more difficult to determine the angle, although the problem is not particularly critical angle. A straight line from the song before the O-point gap centerline (a) not more than 5-6 mm, usually about 3-4 mm. From the toe, straight line down the center line under the clearance curve (b) should be larger than the gap (a) slightly larger.
Step two, the new segment A1-OB must be equal to the length of the original line segment AOB. Remember that line segment OB does not change, so the A1-O part must be carefully checked. Part of the line segment AO boots will be sewn into the upper A1-O into the lateral line, the A1-O length at any point within the distance from the line XY must be measured with time at 90 degrees from the original line segment AO CA's from the same (Figure 6). This will ensure that the toe of the "tabs" will follow the process provided by the original standard, the distance from the upper side of the equal distance with the other side. Any difference here will change the fit boots.
Step 3, P point position (Figure 7) is not important. Should be approximately in the line forming the edge of the XY and the middle toe the line segment XY through the point of the surface below the center line. The point P as a strong point, with the new line segment CA in the vicinity of the center line XY toes more than the amount of distance, down the line CB. Then the line segment CB and the original mix.
Supported by the P point, the toe may look slightly extended, but in fact forming line is shortened. Only the use of support points P2, in order to ensure its length the same, but so ago to help the Ministry of the surface may be too long. Similarly, if we adopt the strong point P1, the upper usually become too short.
As mentioned earlier, when the toe region down, there is a tendency to compensate for reduced molding line. Not recommended, because by the upper edge of the OB after moving back to the point O, O-B1 line extension of a line the length of the molding will be forming in the wrong position to extend the length of the line (Figure 8). Boots on the line segment OB has not changed, but if you line O-B1 (thin dotted line in the chart until the boots on the OB) placed on the center line you will see what will happen to change.
How the universality of the rules?
These rules apply to all ramp stretch boots and shoes to foot the entire cut slope style, even during mild pre-formed design. Indeed, many shoes and Derby Gibson shoes boots the same way from the surface to benefit. For example, using the straight line XY forming the center line from point O to the absolute tension than ordinary black line tension is much smaller (Figure 9, 10).
Repeat the key steps
Determine the point O, draw the straight line;
On the point O to build a new segment, without changing its length and the length measured from the centerline of each point of the distance;
Region forming the toe side down, side molding with the existing mix.
Remember: the shape retention is the ultimate indicator of quality, style along the assembly line in the draft copy of the standards and criteria described above are linked flattening process and good shape retention of the key factors.
Flattening a boot vamp, sometimes referred to as Qu pringing? Is associated with changing the shape of a pattern by a procedure that is not well defined, is influenced by styling and differs for every style with a single-piece vamp. In effect, the shape, which is carefully developed on the standard, is distorted when the final vamp pattern is created and the diagrams in this article illustrate why the process is needed.| Updated:2011.11.11 Source: Clicks:1532
