Sewing thread used for stitching a variety of clothing materials, practical and decorative functions. Suture quality is good or bad, not only affect the sewing effect and processing costs, also affect the finished appearance quality. Therefore, the formation of the general concept of sutures, twist, twist and strong relationship, classification, characteristics and main use of sutures, suture selection were reviewed in this paper, convenient for enterprises to formulate standards and related test, to determine suture.

The general concept of line formation

Carded (carded ) -- only to end paper and textile yarn.

Combing -- combing machine on the fiber ends are combed yarn, fewer impurities, fibre straight.

Blended -- two or more than two different properties of the fiber are mixed together in the yarn.

Single yarn -- spinning machine which is directly formed by untwisting, which would spread, referred to as the yarn.

Strand -- two or more than two yarn and twisting together, referred to as the line.

Sewing thread, clothing and other sewing products -- suture collectively.

New spinning -- and traditional ring spinning, end is a free end, such as spinning, friction spinning. Yarn twisted together, no twist.

Count -- for said yarn fineness indicator, mainly English count, metric counts, Tex, denier.

On twist

Definition: the line through the fibrous structure of twisting, make the line between cross sections relative angular displacement, through straight fiber axis and the tilt to change the line structure. Twisting of the wire has a certain strength, elasticity, elongation, gloss, feel the physical mechanical properties, with unit length twisting numbers, commonly used per inch ( T.P.I ) or twist twist per meter ( T.P.M ).

Twist: rotating 360 degree around the axle center as a twist.

Twist ( S or Z to yarn ): vertical, around the axis of rotation of the helical line formed in the inclined direction. S twist to the inclined direction is consistent with the letter S middle, right or clockwise direction. Z twist to the inclined direction is consistent with the letter Z middle, left hand or counterclockwise.

Twist and strength of relationships: line twist and strength proportional to, but some twist, strongly decreased. The twist is too large, the twist angle increases, the gloss line, poor hand feeling; twist through small, occurrence of hairiness, feel loose. This is because the twist increases, fiber friction resistance increased, so that a strong line of increase. But the twist, yarn axial force becomes smaller, the inner and outer fiber stress distribution is not uniform, leads to the fracture of fibers inconsistency.

In conclusion, breaking the lines of performance, strength and twist have a close relationship, twist and twist to the finished product and processing according to the need, for general Z twist.

The classification, characteristics and main use of sutures

By raw materials can be divided into natural fiber, synthetic fiber sewing thread sewing thread and mixed sewing thread three categories. 1 natural fiber sewing thread

Cotton sewing thread -- with cotton fiber as raw material by bleaching, sizing, the link such as the sewing thread made of wax. Cotton sewing thread can be divided into the absence of light ( or cord ), light wire and wax light. Cotton sewing thread high strength, good heat resistance, suitable for high speed sewing and durable press. Mainly used for fabric, leather and high temperature ironing, sewing, and the disadvantage is the flexibility and abrasion resistance is poor.

Silk line -- with natural silk filament made of wire or silk thread, with excellent luster, strength, flexibility and abrasion resistance are better than those of cotton. Suitable for sewing various types of silk clothing, high-grade woolen clothing, fur and leather clothing. 2 synthetic fiber sewing thread

Polyester sewing thread -- polyester filament or staple fiber manufacturing, with high strength, good elasticity, abrasion resistance, low shrinkage, good chemical stability. But the low melting point, high speed, easy to melt plug needle, wire breakage, attention should be paid to the selection of the machine needle. Mainly used for jeans, sportswear, leather products, such as wool and uniform, is currently used at most, the most popular sewing thread.

Nylon sewing thread -- pure nylon multifilament manufacturing, divided the filament line, short fiber line and elastic deformation of line. At present, the commonly used is linear, it has large extensibility, good elasticity, fracture instant tensile length is greater than three times of the same specifications of cotton. Used in chemical fiber, cloth, leather and elastic garment sewing. Nylon sewing thread is the biggest advantage of transparent, since this line clear, color is good, thus reducing the sewing wiring difficulties, the broad prospects of development. However, limited to the current market transparent line stiffness is too big, strength is too low, stitch is easy to float on the surface of fabric, coupled with high temperature, sewing speed cannot be overestimated. This line is mainly used as a decal, embroidered and is not susceptible to force position.

Vinylon sewing thread -- vinylon fiber, high strength, smooth line, mainly used for sewing thick canvas, furniture cloth, labor supplies.

Acrylic fiber sewing thread -- made of acrylic fiber, twist is low, dyed, mainly used for decoration and embroidery. 3 mixed sewing thread

Polyester sewing thread -- using 65% polyester, 35% cotton and polyester and cotton, with the advantages of high strength, wear resistance, heat resistance, shrinkage, good, mainly for cotton, polyester and other various types of clothing sewing.

Core yarn sewing thread -- filament as core made of natural fibers, outsourcing, strength depends on the core wire, wear-resistant and heat-resistant depends on outsourcing yarn, mainly for the high speed and strong clothing sewing.

Suture choice

Under specific conditions, sutures to form a good stitch while maintaining a certain mechanical performance capacity, referred to the sewing quality evaluation, is the integrated index of sutures. According to the sewing material, thickness, color, style, organization of sewing, sewing equipment or means, choose the type and specifications to match the suture and needle, in general can be guided by the following principles:

1 and the fabric characteristics of coordination

Can ensure the shrinkage rate, heat resistance, abrasion resistance, durability and other uniform, avoiding line, large difference caused by shrinkage of fabrics. General soft thin material with thin, with a small needle, hard and thick material with thick lines, with large machine needle.

2 and sewing equipment coordination

Sewing machine selection of sutures, sewing can twist, maintaining thread strength.

3 and stitch form coordination

Package ( stretch ) sewing machine using fine cotton, material is not easy to deform and wrinkling, and the chain stitch is beautiful, feel comfortable. Crewel stitch should choose good extension of sutures. Crotch seam, shoulder seam should choose fast suture. Button Eyeliner trace should choose wear-resistant sutures.

4 types of coordination and clothing

Special purpose clothing, such as elastic clothing with elastic sutures, fire service application heat-resistant, flame-retardant and waterproof processing thread.